Thursday Tip with Hali - How to quarter a neckband
Thursday Tip // How to quarter a neckband
Befuddled by the quartering method? You definitely aren’t alone. This step isn’t often explained fully in most pattern instructions and it can make sewing neckbands super frustrating for those sewists that are new to sewing knits.
The quartering method is essentially dividing a circular band into four sections or “quarters” and using those points to attach the band onto the body of the garment eg. neckband to neckhole.
The quartering method is used a lot in sewing for both knit and woven patterns. You will see it mentioned with regards to attaching neckbands, armhole bindings, hem bands, cuffs, waistbands, swimwear elastic etc. If pattern designers are thorough they will include notches to help with lining these things up but that isn’t always the case.
So what do you do if there aren’t any notches?
In this video tutorial we show you how to use the quartering method to properly divide both the neckband AND neckhole so they will line up correctly for sewing. Note: The halfway points between the centre front and centre back of a neckhole are NOT the shoulder seams.
This is often where sewists run into trouble with neckbands. If you look at any shirt neckline you will notice that there is more circumference on the front neckline than on the back (between the shoulder seams). So naturally, more of the neckband will need to be distributed on the front of the neckline compared to the back.
For a neckhole, the quarter points will likely be quite a bit in front of the shoulder seams, toward centre front. Paying attention to the shape of the neckline is also important. Leila @leila_sews also has a great tutorial on IG explaining this concept and how to measure your neckline to determine your own placement of the neckband if you don’t like the quartering method.
How to quarter a neckband:
With neckband folded wrong sides together (WST), place a pin at the centre back seam. Hold the centre back seam in one hand and find the opposite edge of the neckband. This will be centre front. Place a pin here.
If the pattern gives you notches, use them!
Match up the pins at centre back and centre front seam in the middle. Then place pins at the folded ends of the neckband. If you watched the video you will notice that my fabric really likes to roll. I don’t mind the fiddliness but if it bugs you then try some spray starch or fusible hem tape to keep things in check.
To quarter the neck hole, place a pin at centre front and centre back. Most patterns will mark these with notches but if they don’t then match up the shoulder seams and fold towards the front and then the back to find the midpoint between the shoulders.
Match up the pins in the centre and walk your fingers along the fabric to find the folded edge on each end and place pins to mark it. Note! These pins will not line up with the shoulder seams. Most neckholes will have more length in the front and less in the back. This will be even more exaggerated if the neckline is a deep scoop.
Now match up all the pinned points on the neckhole and neckband starting at the centre back.
When all the points are matched up, distribute the ease between the pins and place more pins if necessary. PSA: the pattern I used for this tutorial had notches marking the shoulder seams but I ignored those for this tutorial because I wanted to show the basic quartering method.
From my experience, the quartering method is a great starting point but you may need to make slight adjustments depending on the stretch of your knit fabric or where the ease needs to be distributed so it sits properly on the body without puckering or pulling away from the body. Puckering means the band is overstretched and that area needs more length to be distributed. If the band is falling away from the body and/or flopping over then it is too loose in that area.
Needing a bit more neckband length around centre front and a little less ease around centre back is very common. Feel free to adjust the ease as needed.
This goes for elastic too! Especially when sewing swimwear. Personal preference and how your body is shaped should affect how you distribute the elastic. Don’t be afraid to ditch the quartering method and go your own way!