Sewing with Velvet

There is so much velvet in the studio, I’ve had several people ask what to make and how to sew it. I just sewed a Bernadette Skirt by Friday Pattern Company and it worked beautifully! I chose in the end to use velvet for my facing, and it’s so soft on my skin! The silk bias bound edge keeps the velvet from fraying and is super low bulk (unlike folding it under).

Others to consider:

  • Heather Blazer (someone do this please!!)

  • Pomona Pants (with a bound edge instead of folded under)

  • Cameron Shirt for a thinner velvet

  • Drapes and pillows of course would be so luxe in velvet and worth the time!


Here’s a handy tutorial on best practices:

  1. Choose a pattern with few style lines, and maybe try to eliminate any that can be. For example, if the centre back seam isn’t being used for a zipper or shaping, consider removing it. To do so, just fold under the seam allowance on your pattern piece before you trace it onto your fabric.

  2. Prewash your fabric! All the fabrics we have in the Collective are rayon or cotton, so easily washable. Lay it flat to dry, or tumble on low depending on your bravery. ALWAYS test a small piece before laundering your whole piece.

  3. Cut your fabric using the nap layout. You’ve probably noticed that your velvet changes colour depending on how you brush it. When the nap is brushed smooth, it reflects the light and has a lighter appearance. When it’s brushed up, you’ll see a darker colour as the light is absorbed into the fabric. Fascinating! Choose which you’d like and then make sure you stay consistent as you cut out your pieces. Designate one cut edge of your fabric the “head” and the other end the “feet” and make sure you dress your ghost figure accordingly as you place the pattern pieces.

  4. You’ll likely find it easier to cut the velvet from the wrong side since it’s flat woven. I had great luck chalk tracing all my pieces instead of pinning. It reduced holes, noticeable crushed parts of the pile from pinheads and allowed me to transfer all my markings in one go.

  5. Set up your sewing machine with a sharp needle and thread that matches your velvet composition for best results. TBH I used all purpose thread because that’s what I had on hand and it worked just fine. Some things really are a “best” practice and not the end of the world to switch up.

  6. Pressing velvet - Okay, here you have to do it right! Cover your ironing board with a crunchy towel and use an extra large scrap of velvet as a pressing cloth. My black cotton velvet did okay with a bit of pressure from the iron and lots and lots of steam. I made sure I was always pressing on an extra piece of velvet and using a press cloth.

  7. Sew in the direction of the pile for easiest seams! Even so if you’re getting lots of shifting there’s all sorts of advice out there for pinning, basting etc. including temporary adhesive. If you really can’t get it to stop travelling as you sew, loosen your presser foot pressure and/or use some WonderTape to keep it from shifting. I had good success with lots of fine pins.

  8. Reduce bulk by grading your seam allowances, choosing a difference fabric for a facing and choosing to finish your edges without bulk. Consider organza bias tape, Hong Kong seams, or pinking shears (yes, really!).

When they say don’t iron velvet, this is what they mean! Image shows an iron imprint pressed into the pile of velvet.

Use a large scrap of velvet on your ironing board to help keep the pile intact. Always press from the WRONG side.

If you need to press a dart, wrap your ham in your scrap.

Lay your dart on top, and then gently steam the ever loving everything out of it, without touching the fabric with the iron. Steam and finger press and steam and finger press.

Tada! Nicely pressed dart without resorting to crushed velvet! Nailed it!

If you’ve been considering velvet, let me know if you have questions, I’d love to help you out!

If you’re in a mad rush for NYE sewing, I hope this helps!