Sewing With Knits - Free Download
This month is all about knits!
Here’s a great way to get going on your knits sewing practice or maybe learn a new way to sew something if you’re already familiar. This comprehensive booklet takes you through the basics of sewing knits and how to accomplish inserting a neckband, binding and cuff. It’s the basis of our best-selling knits class and a great resource to keep close to your sewing room.
Choosing the right needle
For most knit fabrics you will want to use a ballpoint or jersey needle. These needles have a rounded tip so they slide easily between the fibres instead of piercing or breaking the knitted fibres. For knits with spandex content you will typically use a stretch needle.
It is also important to consider the weight of your fabric when choosing a needle for your project. For lighter knit fabrics like our Ecovero™ Jersey, Cotton Spandex Jersey or Ribbed Tencel Modal use a 75/11 stretch needle. Whereas, heavier fabrics like our Recycled Fleece (40% Recycled Polyester, 40% Recycled Cotton, 20% Recycled Wool) would be better suited to a size 90/14 ballpoint needle because it doesn’t have any spandex in it.
Staystitching: If the pattern says do it, then do it! Knit fabrics can stretch out in the same way woven fabrics can. Under the weight of the pieces and moving them around your sewing room they can easily grow and stretch causing them to change shape and no longer line up as intended. Ask me about my track jacket zipper fiasco sometime. Trust me, not worth skipping this step if it’s recommended in the pattern. Read here for more info on staystitching.
Sewing with knits
When sewing with knits, take your time and try not to stretch the fabric as you sew. A walking foot attachment can be very helpful to help the layers of fabric feed evenly under the foot. When sewing neckbands or cuffs don’t be afraid to baste the band together with a zigzag stitch first so the layers don’t shift while sewing to the neckline or sleeve. Fortunately with knits it is not necessary to finish the raw edges because they won’t fray.
To achieve a better result, especially for necklines, remember to FEED THE EASE. When you are ready to sew your seam make sure the longer length of fabric is touching the feed dogs. In the case of a neckline, you want the body piece of the neckline touching the feed dogs and the neckband piece on top, directly under the presser foot.
For hemming, you can use a traditional zigzag or other decorative stretch stitch if your machine has them. A twin needle is also a good option for hemming to get that ready-to-wear look with a double line of parallel stitches.
Can I press knit fabrics?
YES! Yes you most definitely can, and you should! Generally you will want to use a low heat setting on your iron but follow the fabric listing recommendations if available. If you have a bit of a wobbly seam then a good press can often sort that out and make it look smooth and delightful.
Extra Tips for Hemming:
Choose a stitch. Most importantly, choose a stretch stitch, one that will stretch with the fabric after sewing it. Your machine should have a couple stitch options (eg. zigzag, honeycomb, double overlock etc). When you choose a stitch consider whether you want the stitches to enclose the raw edge of the hem or not. Knits don’t fray so this is optional and not a necessity, just personal preference.
With a zig zag stitch you can stitch close to the raw edge or right over it. If you stitch close to the edge you can always use some applique/duckbill scissors to trim the raw edge down a bit so there isn’t as much extra fabric there. Again, personal preference.
Enjoy this guide including the worksheets! Use code “MEMBERPDF” to download the Knits booklet for free.
