Thursday Tip - Pattern Testing with Nicole
So what's the deal with Pattern Testing? This question comes up a lot in my online sewing groups, and I'm here today, as a frequent pattern tester to share my experiences and opinions on pattern testing.
As a general pattern tester, your job begins after a pattern designer has done preliminary fit tests and graded the pattern to all the sizes available (see Tracy's Thursday Tip about fit testing!) Pattern and instructions are provided. Some pattern tests are completed on your own, but most of my pattern tests are completed in a group (my preference), through Facebook, Slack, or similar applications.
Test length and structure can vary. Most tests plan for 2 rounds of testing, plus a final version. Designers may only require you to complete 1 round of testing and others may ask for 1 fit round and 1 final. I test mostly knit garments, which tend to be easier to fit and have shorter testing rounds. I regularly test for a designer that has a 3 day turnaround, but I would say that a week is the average. If I were testing a garment with higher difficulty, I would expect to have at least 2 weeks per round, especially since it might take longer to gather supplies.
After you have completed your test garment, you provide pictures (front, side, back, any other relevant fit pictures) and commentary on fit and instructions. I tend to provide some copy editing, as this is part of my day job. Designers may require a few days up to a week to review this feedback and make changes to the pattern for the next round of testing.
Some, but not all designers ask for styled photos of your final garment to use for promotion, and some designers request that testers participate in promo too. This can sometimes be the trickiest part of the pattern test! I sew mostly after my five-year-old goes to bed, but clear, bright photos have to be done while the sun is still up, and here in Winnipeg we are entering the coldest, darkest time of year.
At this point, you must be thinking, after all this work you must be getting compensated well! And you'd be mostly wrong.
Compensation has long been discussed in the pattern testing world. Helen's Closet, a Canadian pattern company, notably addressed their testing process in 2020, with a move to paid testers who are not required to do promotion (https://helensclosetpatterns.com/2020/04/07/changes-to-pattern-testing/). And there are more companies out there today with the same model. However, the vast majority of patterns I test do not include monetary compensation for time and material. At the time of writing, I have received a stipend for 1 pattern test ($32CAD) and store credit for several preliminary tests ($20 CAD). More common is a free pattern (on top of the final version of the test). Some pattern companies employ an affiliate program; however, in my experience you will not make enough to cover the pattern cost, let alone the cost of your time, fabric, and notions, and you are required to do extra promotion work to take advantage of this program. In my opinion, most pattern testers are grossly undercompensated, and as a result, the pattern testing world is lacking in some diversity; testing in general is expensive, and testing larger sizes requires more fabric.
So why do I pattern test? I started as a way to expand my sewing skills--nothing like a deadline to force you to try that technique you've been putting off learning! Plus, I enjoy reviewing the pattern - I feel I'm doing a service to my fellow sewists in making sure that pattern instructions are well written. As I've started to test more, I have built relationships with some designers and pattern testers, so it becomes harder to say no to testing. And FOMO has always hit me hard, even though I know I can afford to pay for the pattern after it releases.
That said, I overdid pattern testing in 2023--According to my Instagram posts, I tested 59 patterns in 2023 on top of fabric promotions and personal sewing! I will be slowing down testing in 2024 to focus on some of my personal projects, but will likely continue testing to some degree; I think I will just have to be choosier with which tests I participate in.
Finally, I'll leave you with a few of my favourite pattern tests I completed in 2023. while not every test is a winner, these are patterns I really enjoyed sewing and/or have been wearing lots since making them.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ctg7jkUudSo/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== Porcelynne Eve
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cu99QJlx0wA/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== Sycamore Road Patterns Cameron
https://www.instagram.com/p/CxeMgLgRAo6/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== Petite Stitchery Mikal
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cz4NluDRkAs/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== Wonderful Sews Juno
Thank you and feel free to contact me if you have any additional questions on pattern testing.
Nicole (she/her) lives with her husband and son in Winnipeg, Canada. She picked up sewing in 2019 after being frustrated with replacing her postpartum wardrobe. She jumped right in, with a swimsuit and jeans among her first few projects. These days she participates in lots of pattern testing. She is active in the Projectors for Sewing community, and will sew anything at least once! She is particularly interested in bramaking.