Thursday Tip with Hali - Ease Stitching
Thursday Tip // Ease stitching
Ease stitching is used to help gather the fabric fullness into a particular area. You may encounter ease stitching when sewing a set-in sleeve like in a collared shirt or tailored jacket. Most instructions will include where and how to sew ease stitching but here are some quick steps and a video to demonstrate if you need a little refresher or want to be ultra prepared for your first set-in sleeve.
1. Using a long straight stitch (3.5-4mm) sew one line of ease stitching at ¼” from the edge of your fabric, starting and stopping between the front and back notches on the sleeve cap. Sew another line of stitching ¼” from the previous line. (If your two lines are sewn within the seam allowance there is no need to pull them out. If they do show through on the finished garment you can easily pick them out once the sleeve is finished).
2. Snip top threads as a reminder to only pull the bobbin threads. The bobbin threads will pull much easier than the top ones!
3. To distribute the ease, pull the two bobbin threads near one notch at the same time and then pull the others, alternating in this way until the ease is distributed evenly.
4. Pin sleeve to the body of your garment, first matching notches around the bottom of the armscye and then re-distribute the ease around the cap as needed to fit. When sewing remember to feed the ease, placing the eased sleeve side down on the feed dogs.
